When thinking of the romantic idea of starting up your engine and riding across the length of Vietnam, there are generally two schools of thought. Firstly, that it’s the stupidest idea ever.
The roads are wild, bad and dangerous, and most riders are woefully inexperienced. The second is the opposite. That this is the adventure of a lifetime, the best way to see the country and an easy way to get from one end to the other!
Some rather naively think it’s actually a shorter trip!
Well. We’re here to tell you the truth lies very much in the middle, but it is one of the many things to do in Vietnam that we recommend! We set off having never ridden a motorbike before, with brave stupidity in the chaos of Saigon with a 3-week target in mind! 7 weeks later, we finally sold them, after the most amazing, challenging and downright insane few weeks.
Here are our tips, advice and what we learnt during that time: The ultimate guide to Vietnam by motorbike!
Buy a good bike: The number 1 tip for Vietnam by motorbike
This is the most important thing you will do, and it’s important for a few main reasons: safety, enjoyability and overall cost. Most backpackers go for the Honda Win, a cheap Chinese fake for around $200-$300. Don’t be fooled; you can’t ever get hold of a “new” or “Genuine” one.
The problem with these bikes is that they never work properly; they are built to fall apart, be made to look good as new and then fall apart again. It’s a great money spinner but a sure-fire way to have a frustrating, expensive and even dangerous trip.
So many people we met along the way on Wins had a catalogue of breakdowns and spent at least an extra $100 on bodged-up jobs all over the country. They had got stranded, had bits break at dangerous moments, crashed due to faults and had amazing days ruined, stuck at the side of the road! They also spent much more money on fuel and oil changes too!
We did our research and bought our bikes from a company called “Tigit”. Owned by a British guy, they offer a range of bikes for every level of rider. We opted for the Honda Blade 110cc, a good beginner bike with gears and durability. With Tigit you pay what feels like a lot to begin with, $1000 for each bike but with a buy-back guarantee of $800, it’s a great deal for almost new bikes that are well maintained as well as 24-hour support along the way and free helmet rental. This is by far the best way to do Vietnam by motorbike.
Our bikes ran and ran; we had literally no breakdowns over 2,500 miles each, not even a hint of one. They ran smoothly and safely with good brakes, gears and tyres. Our speedos worked, the petrol gauges and our Odometer; we had mirrors and good lights, all things most Honda Win riders are missing.
All that can make a huge difference when it comes to both safety, not getting stranded and, again, general enjoyment of riding. Upon getting back into Hanoi, we took our bikes to the Tigit offices, and after a brief look over the bikes, we wired the money back to our account within half an hour!
Also, always make sure to get the blue card for your bike; this doesn’t need to be re-registered in your name, but it proves ownership. Don’t accept a bike without one; otherwise, you might get it taken off you, ending your Vietnam by motorbike adventure right there!
*Note: We are in no way affiliated with Tigit and paid the full price as normal customers; they really are just a great company! Check them out here: www.tigitmotorbikes.com
Here are some stats from the bikes
Distance and Cost
NIC:
Distance: 3788 KM / 2354 MILES
Petrol: 915,000 / £32.30
Oil change x 3: £8.79
Bikes from Tigit: $200 / £160
SHORTY:
3855 KM / 2395 MILES
Petrol: 1,085,000 / £38.30
Oil change x 3: £8.79
Bikes from Tigit: $200 / £160
Overall cost:
NIC: £201.80
SHORTY: £207.80
GRAND TOTAL: £409.60
6 WEEKS: 42 DAYS / £9.80 PER DAY FOR BOTH / £4.88 EACH
Differences in distances are basically because on some days, if we were in a city or just going out at night, etc., we would just take one bike out and both go on it!
Don’t forget maintenance
Can you BE any more stylish! Needs must when you’re in the middle of nowhere on a bike, and it’s raining!
A simple but easily overlooked area of long-distance motorbike riding. Even the most pristine bike will start to have a few aches and pains after riding over challenging terrain for days on end over 1000s of KM. Our bikes needed the oil changed every 1000km; older ones such as the Win need one every 300km. This costs around $4.
Washing your bike, tightening and oiling the chain, checking the tyres, brakes, and other areas are all small, cheap and easy, but help avoid major breakdowns.
As our bikes were almost new, Honda would perform much of this for free, only charging for the oil itself. You should also make sure to use petrol and oil from reputable stations and garages. Filling your bike with cheap street petrol is going to completely ruin your engine and may even explode! (Plus, petrol is crazy cheap in Vietnam!)
Practice first before setting off
I can’t tell you not to head out on this adventure if you have never ridden a bike before; that would be hypocritical of me. However, I do wish I had at least practised a little before strapping my bags on and setting off for a 300km ride… which, of course, was a frightening, nerve-jangling and dangerous nightmare!
Seriously, our Vietnam by motorbike trip was almost over before it began! A great idea is to give it a go on a smaller scale first, try out a bike and tour the city before thinking about going on a much longer adventure! Taking an XO Vietnam tour is a great way to have a go first if you are nervous!
That first day, I was shaking and really felt like we had made a mistake. Riding here is serious despite what the shops tell you. Newbies don’t despair; you can still complete this amazing adventure. Just maybe don’t save your first time on a bike for rush hour Saigon traffic, as I did!
Consider the road conditions and driving style in Vietnam.
Riding in Vietnam is dangerous, sorry, mum, but it’s true! Sure, cruising speed is pretty low for motorbikes, but people are crazy, insane, off the Richter scale when it comes to driving. They don’t indicate, check their mirrors, brake before pulling out and often drive on the wrong side!
Huge trucks and buses hurtle past at well over 100kph on YOUR side of the road, heading straight for you with their horn fully on. Beeping is normal; for anything and everything, it’s a case of beeping your way through most junctions or traffic! Vietnam by motorbike: insane!
Some of the roads are also so bad, full of potholes, gravel and dust, making it hard to see, breathe and even stay on the bike! The experienced riders we’ve spoken to have all said Vietnam is the craziest and most dangerous country they’ve ever ridden in!
You have to become an aggressive rider yourself to survive here; don’t take it lightly- they are bloody crackers! I’d like to say that now, as a traveller in my late 30s, I’ve grown out of this, but that would be a lie. I still love the chaos!
Plan for longer than you thought
We planned on riding from Saigon to Hanoi in 3 weeks; 7 weeks later, we had finally finished up in Vietnam! Doing the Vietnam motorbike trip isn’t a quick way to get from one side of the country to another!
Seriously consider how long you have to spend here and try to plan a realistic route and time scale out. Those who hop from tourist spot to tourist spot on buses travel much faster. You, on the other hand, will have to stop every 200-300 km depending on the roads; our longest day was towards the end and an absolute slog at 475 km, not recommended at all!
You will go slower, have to stop for your aching arse, take photos along the way, contend with the traffic, get lost and stay over in some random locations! However, importantly, this is the best part, and where you get to see the real Vietnam in the towns, cities and villages hardly anyone stops at!
If you only have a couple of weeks and want to only do the main tourist loop, then consider instead renting bikes along the way at some of the cities such as Hoi An for the countryside and Hai Van Pass and Phong Nha for the HCM trail and park. These are usually only a few $ a day.
Basically, make sure you get the right visa sorted with extra time on it, rather than having to panic extend it for twice as much money.
Get ready for some gruelling (but epic) days
I had literally no idea before I started this Vietnam by motorbike adventure just how much hard work it is! Biking over long distances really takes a strain on you mentally and physically. Your backside hurts, your hand will cramp up, your back will ache, and you will be drained from concentrating so hard!
18-hour days, waking up before sunrise and arriving after sunset only to do it all again the day after!
Dirty, dusty, sweaty and road-worn is how we felt most days, but it all feels like part of the adventure. Some days it will rain harder than you could ever imagine, and you realise just how little protection from the elements a motorbike offers; you will shiver and wonder what you did to deserve this!
Then will come the unbearably hot and dusty days, the tarmac giving off radiant heat below you and the dry dust sticking to your sweating face, filling your mouth with grit and blinding your eyes!
But honestly, some of the most challenging days on the bike turned out to be the most memorable and the best adventures of them all!
Plan out a rough route and get a good GPS
It’s a good idea to plan your time at least a little. Vietnam is a big country, and time gets away from you fast on the bikes. Pick a mixture of well-known towns and cities and coastal routes, and mix it up with riding through remote locations in the mountains to get the best out of the country.
Do lots of research and pick the best roads too; that makes a huge difference! Of course, you might not stick to it religiously, but it’s best to have a rough plan. Using Map. Me and Google Maps are also great apps for both route planning and not getting lost once on your way!
Always consider the remoteness of your route
When you are weaving in and out of traffic in the cities and gliding down the coastal routes, you might wonder what I am talking about. But as popular as some places are in Vietnam, there are many that are still somewhat uncharted territory and very much isolated and dangerous. By all means, these too are the best roads in the country.
Heading up the Ho Chi Minh Trail and not seeing another person for hours as we negotiated the jungle-lined track was amazing. Travelling through Vietnam by motorbike is like travelling through several countries, weather systems and conditions; always be prepared!
However, these things should be prepared for. Check your route beforehand and always take extra fuel, water, food, batteries and enough cash, as small towns often won’t have an ATM.
Also consider the implications of taking a fall in these areas and drive with extra caution or let someone know your route and expected time of arrival beforehand. It’s also a good idea to know where a few hostels/ hotels and towns with supplies are along the way.
Buy a Vietnamese phone
You don’t need anything fancy or expensive, but a smartphone will help. Get some minutes and data on a Vietnamese SIM so you know you can call for help or access maps, etc at any time. This was also important for us with Tigit too, as they also had WhatsApp for questions and emergencies. Again, this could be a lifesaver!
Prepare for all weather conditions
Heading to Southeast Asia, you could be forgiven for leaving your thermals, jackets and long pants at home! Well, here’s a wake-up call: it gets bloody cold in Vietnam, and anyone who has ridden a bike will know that that is amplified by 100 once you get riding!
Be prepared to travel through several weather conditions. It will be hot in Saigon, Hanoi and along the coast. Don’t be tempted to wear flip-flops and go without a helmet; this is just plain stupid, and Vietnam also has some strict Helmet laws. Further north, it will get cold and wet. Wear layers and invest in either waterproof clothing or one of the ponchos the locals wear! Also bear in mind they can be awkward to ride in and reduce visibility.
Ride according to the weather; fog can descend quickly in the mountains, and dust is also a problem in the dry areas. Buy goggles and a mask too, and a cover for your bag, and get a dry sack for valuables; preparing for the weather makes it all much more fun!
Police and insurance
Whilst it is technically illegal for you to ride in Vietnam, even with an international license, most of the Police don’t care. However, do be aware that in Mui Ne, they are highly corrupt and have a bribery scam on the go.
You should also consider that this makes your insurance invalid in most cases, and riding a motorbike is inherently dangerous. Take your time to consider whether you think it is worth it and be sure to drive as safely as you can. We also suggest looking into one-off insurance for this trip and speaking to the people at Tigit about these concerns.
Travel insurance is one of those annoying things that no one likes to think about, let alone pay for, when you’re planning your next trip. It can also be bloody annoying as a backpacker/long-term traveller to find affordable coverage that meets the itinerary-less lifestyle (*cough* World Nomads *cough*).
So instead of getting subpar travel insurance, now we just always go with SafetyWing. It takes like 5-10 minutes to purchase your policy and essentially functions as a monthly subscription plan with near-global coverage!
Vietnam by motorbike: Get ready for the adventure of a lifetime.
Don’t let us scare you or put you off; on the contrary, riding through Vietnam has to be one of the most amazing things we have ever done. The adventure of a lifetime, life-changing even and the opportunity to see this country up close and personal in a way we just would never have been able to do.
However, we also met many people who were clueless and naive about exactly how hard and dangerous this is. Be serious about it before you go for it, and you will remember this experience for the rest of your life!
Also Cat Ba and Ha Long Bay after returning the bikes, and of course countless towns and villages along the way!
Highlights not to miss
For us, the highlights were the central highlands around Dalat, an adventurer’s paradise with Canyoning, waterfalls and rural tribal villages within the mountains.
Then the small city of Quy Nhon on the coast with its virtual lack of tourists and Giants Causeway-style basalt columns rising out of the perfect blue waters, as well as tiny untouched villages. This was one of the benefits of travelling Vietnam by motorbike, finding these off-the-beaten-track treasures.
The surrounds of Hoi An provided us with the most amazing and emotional look into the lives of local people and the effect of the war. Meeting farmers and fishermen and trying out their way of life. We also met up with a motorbike enthusiast from the US and rode all over Da Nang with him! Riding the Hai Van Pass over to Hue was also one of the most spectacular and perfect roads in the entire country and the reason we wanted to do Vietnam by motorbike in the first place.
Riding through the isolated tracks of the famous Ho Chi Minh Trail as it wound its way through the jungle on the Laos border was one of the most wild and adventurous experiences on the bikes. Seeing no one for hours, crossing mountains and rivers, and tiny hill tribe villages where people would run out to say hello. This was just an amazing place to be!
Then the caves of Phong Nha and the amazing karst mountains covered in forests provided amazing adventure and stunning scenery. This made all the hard times of travelling Vietnam by motorbike worth it!
Heading up to Sapa from Hanoi was our absolute highlight of Vietnam by motorbike. We took a 2-day ride through villages and stayed in the most amazing family homestay, celebrating Vietnamese New Year with them and the whole village. We then trekked for 2 days with H’mong women through the mountains and rice terraces of Sapa, a truly wonderful, beautiful and fascinating region.
Finishing off by exploring the city of Hanoi, we met some amazing people and fell in love with a city that, on the second time around, felt almost like home! There are so many wonderful places in Vietnam to visit that even in 7 weeks we felt we could have seen so much more!
Places that fell short
We were a little too preoccupied with sorting the bikes whilst staying Saigon to really immerse ourselves in all honesty so didn’t really connect with it.
Mui Ne and Nha Trang are much the same, some nice coastal regions and roads but totally overtaken by Russian tourism to the point where you hardly feel like you are in Vietnam! There is also the Police issue in Mui Ne, which, all in all, makes these cities not worth the effort.
Hoi An itself is a wonderful and lovely little historic town. However, once again, tourism has ruined it, mostly locals who hound you at the sight of your Western face. It makes visiting here feel like a zoo and not really pleasant at all. Worth seeing but a little annoying and disappointing!
Despite loving Phong Nha, we also hated it! Everything is so overpriced and frankly a ripoff. Up here, they have the monopoly on the caves, and you can pay an absolute fortune for some tours, talking 1000s of dollars! Most are not at all worth that price, and you can do them cheaper on your own; however, many are basically owned by these money-grabbing companies.
Places we wish we visited
I wish we had stayed in the highlands from Dalat, to be honest, although the coastal region was lovely down here, or cut back up earlier and followed the Ho Chi Minh Trail for a little longer.
If we had time and the energy, we would also have loved to head over to Ha Giang and do the Northern Loop. Not one for the inexperienced; we would head back in better weather and do this in a couple of weeks as a trip in itself.
Our overall feelings about riding through Vietnam
Having the bikes really allowed us to see the country in so much more detail, to get off the beaten track with so much more ease and experience everything with much more intensity. It was also one of the hardest things we’ve done, but by far one of the best.
The riding days were long and tiring, and we would often encounter the full range of weather and temperatures in one day! Before getting on a bike here, I had never ridden a motorbike; I had to learn in the crazy traffic of Saigon and quickly!
But after this, I feel like I have found a new passion and hope to get a bike one day again and maybe even travel like this again, having acquired a new skill too! Overall, travelling Vietnam by motorbike is by far one of the highlights of our travelling lives!
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Yo, I’m Nic (they/them), one-half of The Roaming Renegades.
I’m an adventure (and halloumi) obsessed traveller with a passion for hiking mountains, exploring cities, watching Arsenal win, moshing out to Rammstein in random European fields and getting hopelessly lost on a motorbike somewhere in Asia! I am also a proud member of the LGBT+ community.
I’ve explored 80 countries, lived in Australia and New Zealand, and spent months wandering Southeast Asia, South America and Eastern Europe, all while trying to avoid growing up!
Did it work? I dunno, but my back hurts, and I still collect Pokémon cards! Who wants in?!
Wow! I love the breakdown and I would so seriously consider doing this when I hit up Vietnam. Havent riden a motorbike in years mind you but it all comes back naturally 🙂
I have to admit that I would be a little bit nervous on a bike. I would totally be one of those people that gets the cheap imitation bike:) But your photos are so gorgeous, I think it would be worth confronting my fears!
Ha ha, I was nervous at first and Vietnam is a hard place to learn but it makes you learn fast!! Lol, yeah we almost got one of those before someone told us all about them!! Thanks
Wow, you’re so brave! We recently rented scooters in Bali for a few days and that was scary enough but I couldn’t imagine riding for 7 weeks through a whole country! Looks like you had an incredible time though!
After a while you really just get used to it, which is a good and bad thing at the same time! We can’t wait to ride around Bali. Its the best way to really see a country!
This sounds WAY fun, but I would be super nervous about driving at first. I’m sure the more rural areas have less traffic. Ya’ll have some serious willpower. I don’t know if I could take being all cramped up in that riding position for so many hours!
Yeah it was scary at first in the traffic, the rural areas are more fun to ride with quieter roads and better scenery, however they are also scary as often we had to take extra fuel and food and if we were to come off the bike there was no help! At first we could only ride for a short distance but as time went on our backsides hardened!! ha ha
Very useful tips for those thinking about hiring /buying a motorbike in VN. I only had a taste of it (a scooter inside Hoi An and Hue + their surroundings) but I had a blast. By the pictures I can say you were not lucky with the weather, what a pity!
Yeah we got a mixture with the weather, in the south it was amazing but in the mountains it did rain a little, but this was all part of the adventure in the end. We got really lucky up in Sapa for trekking through and would deffo recommend it even in the winter!
What a big adventure! I did a much shorter one- I don’t know if I have it cut out for me to do such a long one but it seems fun and you got some great photos. I’m really wanting to get back to Vietnam- mostly for the food!
It sounds like quite the adventure to motorbike in Vietnam! If I did it, I’d ride on the back with my husband ha! Looks like you got some rainy days, but I love how the pictures turned out.
Yeah we got a mixture of weather but it was all part of the adventure!! It was such a fun way to see the country, even on the back of a bike would be amazing but I wanted to ride too… I trust my skills more than his!! ha ha! :-p
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sounds absolutely fantastic – you’re very brave to get out there on bikes I could barely manage to cross there had on foot in Vietnam!
Ha ha, thanks, I actually find it harder crossing on foot, if you can’t beat them then join them!! lol
Wow! I love the breakdown and I would so seriously consider doing this when I hit up Vietnam. Havent riden a motorbike in years mind you but it all comes back naturally 🙂
Its the best way by far to see the country properly, both the good and the bad sides to ‘nam! It’s just like riding a bike! :-p
I have to admit that I would be a little bit nervous on a bike. I would totally be one of those people that gets the cheap imitation bike:) But your photos are so gorgeous, I think it would be worth confronting my fears!
Ha ha, I was nervous at first and Vietnam is a hard place to learn but it makes you learn fast!! Lol, yeah we almost got one of those before someone told us all about them!! Thanks
Wow, you’re so brave! We recently rented scooters in Bali for a few days and that was scary enough but I couldn’t imagine riding for 7 weeks through a whole country! Looks like you had an incredible time though!
After a while you really just get used to it, which is a good and bad thing at the same time! We can’t wait to ride around Bali. Its the best way to really see a country!
This sounds WAY fun, but I would be super nervous about driving at first. I’m sure the more rural areas have less traffic. Ya’ll have some serious willpower. I don’t know if I could take being all cramped up in that riding position for so many hours!
Yeah it was scary at first in the traffic, the rural areas are more fun to ride with quieter roads and better scenery, however they are also scary as often we had to take extra fuel and food and if we were to come off the bike there was no help! At first we could only ride for a short distance but as time went on our backsides hardened!! ha ha
Very useful tips for those thinking about hiring /buying a motorbike in VN. I only had a taste of it (a scooter inside Hoi An and Hue + their surroundings) but I had a blast. By the pictures I can say you were not lucky with the weather, what a pity!
Yeah we got a mixture with the weather, in the south it was amazing but in the mountains it did rain a little, but this was all part of the adventure in the end. We got really lucky up in Sapa for trekking through and would deffo recommend it even in the winter!
What a big adventure! I did a much shorter one- I don’t know if I have it cut out for me to do such a long one but it seems fun and you got some great photos. I’m really wanting to get back to Vietnam- mostly for the food!
Thanks, it really was amazing! Ha ha, it took a while to get used to riding for so long. Even after so long we would love to return also!
It sounds like quite the adventure to motorbike in Vietnam! If I did it, I’d ride on the back with my husband ha! Looks like you got some rainy days, but I love how the pictures turned out.
Yeah we got a mixture of weather but it was all part of the adventure!! It was such a fun way to see the country, even on the back of a bike would be amazing but I wanted to ride too… I trust my skills more than his!! ha ha! :-p
Wow, 7 weeks traveling by motorbikes?! You two are adventurous. I just love following your travels, thanks for sharing 🙂
Thank you!! Yeah it was crazy but one of the best things we have ever done!
Wow, this sounds like an adventure. I’ve never ridden a motorbike before. This does sound like a good way to see the country though.
I didn’t know how to ride one before!! Good way to learn and see the country better!